Another Recipe – Chicken and Sausage Gumbo

My Version!

Hello! If you are just joining, thanks for being here and please read the first few newsletters if you would like to be brought up to speed. We are currently in the midst of my origin story with some recipes thrown in for good measure. If you are here for wine, have no fear, it’s about to be all wine ponderings and recipes from here on out.

My last origin story brought me to the end of my time at the Glass Onion, the Charleston restaurant I helped create in 2008. In the spring of 2014 I decided to sell my share to my business partner and seek out a career focused on wine. While this brought much excitement and joy to me, it also brought sadness – a necessary grief that comes with all departures. Much of my grief was abstract, but I also mourned the loss of tangible things – like my weekly bowl of gumbo! See, gumbo was a staple on the Glass Onion menu from day one, and thus I never had to make my own. Plus, I think I had a bit of imposter syndrome when it came to making gumbo. I am not from Louisiana, and so it’s certainly not in my blood.

But hunger eventually beat out the imposter thing and eventually I came up with my own recipe! While gumbo is definitely a bit of a time commitment, I promise that it’s a tasty bit of magic that anyone can conjure up with a bit of practice! In Louisiana, there are possibly as many versions as there are Mardi Gras beads in the trees (if you know, you know). So, I will just say this is my version, and it’s delicious! (By the way, this recipe does yield A LOT of gumbo, but honestly it’s one of those dishes that you will want to make more than you need so that you can freeze some for later (and reward yourself for all your hard work)).

For a wine pairing, I recommend a light red that is a touch on the fruity side – like the Hazel Fern Oregon Pinot Noir I have pictured above or a Gamay from the Beaujolais or some lighter Nebbiolo could also work well. You could also choose a more full bodied white like some Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. I would just avoid bigger, tannic, and boozy reds as they will enhance the spiciness that is usually found in most andouille sausages.

Sarah’s Chicken and Sausage Gumbo

As I have noted above, gumbo is a bit of a time commitment – so you will want to clear a few hours out of an afternoon to get it started (and really focus on it) and then a couple more hours to finish (with slightly less focus). The most important step is cooking the roux (the combination of flour and oil that is the base of your gumbo) – you CANNOT leave your roux unattended. You will want to prep all of your vegetables in advance that will be added to this roux (onions, bell pepper, celery, garlic). Really this entire recipe goes very smoothly if you have all your mise-en-place ready to go! 

For roasted chicken:

About 5 pounds of chicken pieces (bone-in) (I prefer thighs)

Olive oil, salt, and freshly ground pepper 

For gumbo:

¾ cup neutral oil, such as canola (but full disclosure I use olive oil, and it works just fine!)

1 cup all purpose flour

3 cups chopped onion (about 2 onions)

2 cups chopped green bell pepper (about 2 peppers)

2 cups chopped celery (6 to 8 celery stalks)

2 tablespoons sliced garlic (about 6 garlic cloves)

2 teaspoons kosher salt 

1 ½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

¼  teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons dried oregano 

3 quarts chicken stock (preferably homemade)

4 bay leaves

Bundle of fresh thyme, tied with kitchen twine

1 ½ quarts chopped okra (frozen or fresh)

1 pound andouille sausage, sliced in half lengthwise twice and then chopped to give quartered circles (this is just my preference)

½ teaspoon ground filé (optional)

Finely chopped green onions for garnish (optional)

Steamed white rice for serving 

To cook chicken (this can be done a day in advance): Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place chicken pieces in a large roasting pan. Season chicken liberally with salt, fresh ground black pepper, and coat in a good amount of olive oil. Cook until chicken is very tender (nearly falling off the bone), about 1.5 hours. Allow to cool, remove and discard chicken skin and then remove chicken from the bone – tearing into bite size chunks but not shredding. 

To cook gumbo: heat oil in a large pot over medium heat until just warm, about 2 minutes. Add the flour to the oil and stir to combine. You will continue stirring and gradually cooking your roux until it is dark brown (about the color of a Hershey’s chocolate bar). I prefer to keep my heat about medium (or just a touch below medium) for the entire time, and this takes about 20 minutes to reach the desired color. However, every stove top is different so keep an eye on your roux and make sure it is not burning. It is better to cook it lower and slower than burn it! If you burn your roux, you will have to throw it out and start over. But also keep in mind that the smell of a roux cooking does tend to have a slight burnt toast smell (so don’t be too scared). You have only burnt your roux if it turns black. (Also please keep in mind that the roux is essentially lava while cooking – even a little splatter on your skin will hurt.)

Once your roux is the desired color, lower your heat and allow the roux to cool just slightly (this makes it easier to safely add your vegetables). Add onion, bell pepper, celery, and garlic. Season with salt, black pepper, and cayenne. Stir to combine (thoroughly coating the vegetables with the roux). Raise heat to medium and cook the vegetables, stirring continuously, until they are tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Towards the end of cooking the vegetables, add the dried oregano, and stir to combine. Add the chicken stock and stir to combine. Bring to a boil, stirring frequently, and add bay leaves and thyme bundle. Lower to a simmer, stirring occasionally, until the floury flavor has melded with the dish, about 2 ½ to 3 hours. Skim fat from the surface while cooking for best results.You can add more chicken stock or even water if your gumbo becomes too reduced.

Once you are happy with the flavor of your gumbo, add the okra, return to a simmer, and cook until tender. (I generally use frozen, chopped okra that I have saved from the summer garden, and this takes about 20 minutes to cook until tender. Fresh okra should take less time to cook.)

Add sausage, roasted chicken, and filé, and return to a simmer. 

Serve over steamed white rice with a garnish of chopped green onion and hot sauce on the side.  (And yes, like many stews, gumbo is even better on the second day.)

Yield: About 4 quarts (1 gallon) 

P.S. A perfect soundtrack would of course be some Louisiana music. I am thinking Dr. John and/or Professor Longhair (especially his Crawfish Fiesta album). 

P.P.S. In case you are wondering, filé is ground sassafras root that is traditionally used for flavor and as a thickener in gumbo. It is readily available online, of course, but if you forget to order it then don’t let this stop your gumbo project. It tastes just fine without!