Paris in the Springtime – Travel Tips & More

A Quick Guide to Some of My Faves!

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This spring has me reminiscing about our trip to Paris last spring (cue this song to play in your head all day on repeat), and on that note I thought I would share some of my Paris highlights with you…

I am sure we all have those cities that invigorate us from the moment we step off the plane – Paris is that way for me (1000%)! I’ve been lucky to visit there quite a few times thanks to my long time obsession with France – always making it a priority. Yet somehow I had not visited with my partner in wine, and thus this trip held extra importance. Sharing a place you love with someone you love always feels a bit like baring your soul. There’s a subtle holding of the breath, hoping they will share your infatuation. Thankfully, Paris delivers. 

Of course, I occasionally hear folks beat up on Paris. But I really believe that’s mostly due to missteps in planning. Imagine if you visited New York and only went to tourist attractions! Of course, there’s a certain need to check a few landmarks off the list, but my favorite times in most cities stem from simply wandering. 

On this trip I did book an Airbnb Experience that was a walking tour. This is a nice way to give yourself the lay of the land and learn some history (especially for me, since only wine history is my forté, haha). And we did visit a few museums but mostly smaller ones (I love the Picasso museum and Rodin museum). Of course we spent a lot of time eating and at mostly wine-centric restaurants (obviously!), but we also spent a lot of time wandering and simply soaking in the vibe that is uniquely Paris! 

I know that half the battle with planning a trip to an iconic city is narrowing down the to-do list; so, while I have a much longer list, here’s my succinct version of true favorites! We spent six nights in Paris and then rented a car (at the airport) and spent 3 nights in Champagne (a very short and easy drive). We spent our last night at a boring hotel by the airport, but it made our departure easy and stress free. I will focus on our trip to Champagne in a separate newsletter, but please message me with any other questions (I am happy to answer).  And of course, leave your own favorite spots in the comments. 

Now without further adieu – allons-y! 

Restaurants:

I have organized my restaurant list according to the left bank and right bank of the Seine River, which divides the city in half. The left bank can be a bit more posh and was the old stomping ground of ex-pats like Hemingway (back when it was not posh)! The right bank also has its posh areas, but as you head further away from the river you will find the current uber hip areas that have many of the best new restaurants. That being said, there are still terrific restaurants and wine bars all over the city, and we chose to stay on the left bank (right by the Sorbonne University) as there’s a terrific, relatively affordable hotel there and pretty centrally located. 

In addition to constantly seeing reference to the left and right banks when planning your trip, you will also see reference to the Parisian neighborhoods, known as arrondisements. Some are referred to by an actual name (like Marais), but others will mostly be referred to by the number (like the 11th, where many of the new hot spots are). Even though smart phones and gps make everything easy these days I do think it’s nice to have an actual physical map so you can really get the scope of the whole city when planning your wandering. I love the laminated and neatly folded Streetwise maps and have one for every favorite city. Click here to see their map of Paris. (But I also love to create my own google map before a trip with a variety of attractions flagged!)

One other note regarding restaurants, I would highly recommend making reservations unless it’s a very casual cafe. These days most have online reservation options on their websites, but there were a couple I had to email and one that I had the concierge call once we arrived. 

Left Bank:

Les Botanistes – very classic (& tiny!); in the 7th 

*Open lunch & dinner; closed Sunday

This sweet little spot caught my eye on a walk through Paris nearly 10 years ago, but I had run out of time and never ate there. I rectified that on this trip, and we ate there on our first night, which was ideal as it was a short walk from our hotel. It’s old school and perfect; run by a couple who appears to handle every detail themselves. We enjoyed a bottle of Sancerre rouge (yep that’s a thing – it’s 100% Pinot Noir) with iconic dishes like country pate, rabbit, and a gratin of potatoes that I still dream about! 

Huitrie Regis – very cool and tiny oyster bar; in the 6th

*Open every day for lunch & dinner

This was a favorite of mine on a trip in 2014, and although we did not get a chance to go this past year it appears to still be going strong! 

Cafe de la Nouvelle Marie – perfect cafe – near Luxembourg Garden which is also a must; in the 5th

*Open Monday-Friday from 8 a.m. to midnight; closed Saturday & Sunday

I stumbled upon this cafe on an afternoon in 2014 and had one of those magical European vacation moments when everything just feels like a postcard. From the zinc top bar to the tiling on the floor to the quaint sidewalk seating overlooking a pocket park…and then just simple cafe fare – soups, salads, sausages with lentils…yum! Evidently I was not the only person who fell under its spell as this block became one of the main locations for shooting Emily in Paris (a Netflix series in case you missed it). So now you can enjoy watching groups snap photos in front of the apartment building across the street while you sip your wine. It did not bother me at all – still a great spot! 

Right Bank:

Bistrot des Tournelles – revamped classic bistro – very good – in Marais (the 3rd)

*Open for dinner only; closed Monday

This nouveau old school bistro opened in 2022 and came highly recommended. While it was the most warm and fuzzy service of the trip I thought it had an excellent ambience, wine list, and food. Think oeufs mayo (basically French deviled eggs!), white asparagus, roasted chicken with morel mushrooms, etc. We enjoyed one of my fave Jura wines – Tissot Trousseau (the amphora version!). 

Parcelles – another revamped bistro – also very good even for lunch! (the 3rd)

*Open for lunch & dinner; closed Saturday & Sunday

Retro chic with modern takes on classics. Definitely hyped up, but I thought well worth the hype. And honestly I loved having lunch here rather than dinner as one should have at least one leisurely, wine filled lunch ini Paris. The wine list here is top notch, and they have terrific by-the-glass options. They also have a wine shop across the street! 

Mary Celeste – fun wine bar and small plates – in Marais (the 3rd)

(Very close to a great clothing shop Merci and near the Picasso museum)

*Open 7 days 12 p.m. to 2 a.m.

Mary Celeste is also on the hip radar. I loved it mostly because it’s casual and easy to drop in if you are in the Marais shopping, wandering, or visiting the Picasso museum. Think of it more as a snack bar with some fun by-the-glass options.

Le Saint Sebastien – our fave restaurant this time – nouveau classic for dinner; in the 11th

*Open for dinner only; closed Sunday & Monday

All of us foodies know that experience of having a dining experience that just sweeps you up so that you are lost in the moment and truly present for the experience. Such was the case at Le Saint Sebastien. It’s contemporary French dining at its best and in a jewel of a space. We had another great bottle of Jura wine here from Francois Rousset-Martin.

Other food stuff:

Breiz Cafe – classic savory buckwheat crepes! Several locations! 

Du Pain & des Idees – the BEST bakery (in the 11th) 

*Open 7:15 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Closed Saturday & Sunday

Yes, even if you are not staying near the 11th you MUST hop in an Uber or grab a city bike and make it to this bakery, which has to be in my top 5 bakeries EVER! 

Jacques Genin – the BEST Chocolate!

*left and right bank locations with slightly different hours

Yes, there are many chocolate shops in Paris, but after 2 trips that happened to be nearly 9 years apart, I stand by my proclamation that Jacques Genin is top tier. There lovely boxes are the perfect gifts to bring back home.

My Fave Sites:

Musee D’Orsay 9:30-6 closed Mondays 

Picasso Museum 10:30-6 closed Mondays 

Rodin Museum 10:30-6 closed Mondays

Of course if you have not been to the Louvre, I understand wanting to check that off your list, but it really is a big undertaking. One thing you might consider is booking a tour through Airbnb experiences as a pro could definitely streamline the visit for you! 

I would also recommend buying tix to the museums in advance as that can save time, and you can find some great bundle deals! 

Othe Resources:

Paris by Mouth is a great website and offers tours. I took two of these tours on a previous trip and loved them both!

David Lebovitz is an American food writer who lives in Paris and has a great website and Substack newsletter!